For me, Amsterdam has always been a city of mystery. I had heard about the Red Light District in hushed, reverent tones with its illuminated allies full of “ladies of the night”, the legal buying and selling of marijuana, the beer factories, and the partying until the sun comes up the next day. On the other hand, I had also heard about the beautiful landscape, the canal system surrounded by greenery and tulips, and the architecture that looks like a postcard. What I couldn’t grasp is how these two very different aspects could come together to create one very schizophrenic city. How could such a historic, lush city have such a seedy underbelly? There was obviously only one way to find out- I would go. Not only would I plan a trip to Amsterdam, but true to form I would book tickets to leave the very next day, and pack at the very last minute.
The next day we set out for our seven hour Megabus ride that would take us from Paris, through Brussels, and into Amsterdam. It is still amazing to me that a bus that goes through three countries cost me only about 15 American dollars! It was a beautiful ride that ended up taking nearly 9 long hours due to traffic. When we finally arrived, we were eager to get to our hostel, drop off our luggage and meet up with our friends from our dorm in Paris. We took a shuttle in from ten minutes out of the city where the bus dropped us. Pulling into downtown was so much more exciting than I had expected. It was love at first sight when I saw Amsterdam. The city was bustling with people, everything was lit up for Friday night and the buildings were something out of a storybook. Everyone was friendly and happy to help us with directions to our hostel. When we arrived at the door, we were immediately greeted by a huge flight of the most deathly steep stairs I have ever seen. We managed to make it up with what pitiful strength and balance we could muster up and checked in. Little did we know the stairs from hell would be the best part of this hostel experience. With my luck, we got the room in the attic. As if this weren’t scary sounding enough, we had three flights of narrow spiral stairs to climb before reaching our room. Opening the door was like opening a portal to my worst nightmare. I thought dorm living was bad, but by the end of this stay, I was desperate for my bunk bed. We had four roommates from Italy who were already stoned out of their minds upon our arrival. Only one of them could speak enough English to hold a conversation, two could pick up a few words here and there, and the last I think was a mime, because I can’t recall him uttering a sentence in Italian or English the entire time we were there. My bed was a small twin sized cot with one top sheet and some raunchy red blanket to go overtop. I would take my chances with snuggling up with the red blanket, but I decided it was the best decision to use the top sheet as a fitted sheet in order to spare myself from seeing what lied beneath. The bathroom was probably a murder scene at some point, as the smell of rotting life seeped from the door every time it opened. The sink was in the bedroom and we were less than satisfied with our 12”X 10” mirror that was at my waist. We locked up our luggage and ran out of there to meet our friends in order to keep me from flinging myself out the window. After all, my chances of survival would have probably been better than staying there too long.
We met up with some of the boys and went to gather the rest at a bar called The Bulldog. The Bulldog has several establishments all next to each other- there is a bar, coffee house and souvenir shop. Why so many different locations right next door to one another? Here’s the skinny on buying and selling in Amsterdam. As you probably know (and if you don’t you really need to buy a book, get wifi, or come out of that rock you call home) it is legal to buy and sell marijuana in Amsterdam. The rules are pretty much the same as buying and selling tobacco in America- you must be 18 to purchase, it is government regulated and taxed, you can grow it, and much like tobacco used to be in most American cities, you can smoke in most establishments and on the streets. The weird rule, however is that no single establishment can sell both alcohol and marijuana. Hence, the extra store front for the “coffee shop”, which is actually the name in Amsterdam for places you can purchase marijuana and smoke in a more laid-back environment than the bar (which you can also smoke in). The funny, backwards part about Amsterdam is that you cannot smoke cigarattes inside, only marijuana. The Bulldog claims to be the first coffee house in all of Amsterdam having had opened in 1974. We later discovered it is one of many coffee houses to be established that year and to also claim to be the original. But enough history and rules, lets get back to the fun.
We made our first marijuana purchase at the Bulldog coffee house- a space cake and candy kush. The coffee house was as laid back as can be with dim lights and Rasta music. I felt as if I could look over and see Bob Marley at any second. I ate the cake and we headed to the bulldog bar. A few beers and hits later and we were officially living the Amsterdam lifestyle. We walked the streets for a bit after the bar and headed to the Red light District to see the most famous aspect of the nightlife. The Red Light District is much more expansive than I expected. I had been under the impression that it was comprised of one alley, with the girls in high windows. In actuality, it encompasses numerous alleys with dozens of girls at street level. It felt incredibly weird walking down the alleys seeing girls that were mostly my age in lingerie with all sorts of plastic surgery attempt to lure in men old enough to be their dads that were slimier than a snail. They were in small rooms right next to one another, posted up in the glass door under their red light. They looked like trashy Barbie dolls in their plastic casing. Maybe it’s just because I’m a girl, but I expected this to be a funny sight, but it only made me feel incredibly sad for them. What could have possibly gone wrong in roughly 20-25 years of life that has made such pretty girls turn into nothing more than a cheap, hour long ride of some disgusting person’s life? Overlooking what could potentially kill my buzz/high combo, we carried on to get food and then called it a night.
That night was one of the worst night’s sleep on record. When we returned to the hostel, our roommates had left their stash and money all over the table. Strange. When we turned on the light to get our things, we woke up the roommates who immediately started panicing in Italian. They got up, counted their money, gathered their stash, and searched for their things. Freaked out by their freak out, I barely slept thinking they would think we stole something. The next morning I got up and braved the shower situation. I turned on only the hot water that got only as hot as luke warm. After lathering my hair, the water shut off completely. Fearfully, I turned on just the cold handle and the icey cold water came shooting out. Needless to say, it was a half assed shower. Out of character, I didn’t shower again until I got back to Paris. I figured this option would be the lesser of the two evils. When we were finishing getting ready, our roommates woke up and began talking about us in Italian. Even though we had met them yesterday, they began asking us our names and where we were from. After much confusion, we figured out they didn’t remember us from the day before. They were so stoned they had forgotten about us completely. This explained the freak out when we got home last night. After we went through introductions for the second time, they offered us a hit and joined us for breakfast with our friends.
The highlight of our day was our trip to the Heineken factory. For 17 euro we got a tour of the factory as well as two beers. Seemed perfect enough. We learned all about the history of the company and the brewing process. The tour was incredibly interactive with games, photo stations, video stations where you can record a video and send it to friends and family, a 4D short ride where you “got bottled” into a Heineken, and a beer tasting. It was like Willy Wonka’s factory for adults. After the beer tasting where we learned the proper way to drink a beer, the purpose of the foam and the ingredients that go into a Heineken, I won a second beer simply by remembering our tour guide’s name. The factory tour finished in a makeshift bar where we received our two beers. Luckily, the two women in line in front of me didn’t want one of theirs and offered me and my friend each an extra drink token. This brought my free beer tally up to five. I think the cost of admission was well worth it. That night was our friend’s birthday, so naturally we did up right Amsterdam style and made it a birthday to remember.
The next day all of the boys left, bringing the people count down from about 12, to 4. Now that the group was smaller and only comprised of girls, it was easier for us to plan the day and see more of the city. Our first excursion of the day was visiting Anne Frank’s house (sorry, no pictures allowed). We waited in line for almost an hour. Cost of admission was 9 euro and was worth every penny. Being in her house was one of the most intense, emotional experiences of my life. A lot of the house was kept in tact and preserved behind glass: the original wallpaper in Anne’s room and the pictures she glued to the walls, the stove they cooked in, the sink, the stairs, etc. The tour was of the entire house, not just attic which was what I was expecting, so it took an hour or so to make it through. Being in the house, it felt as if the energy of the family and time was still present. The mood was somber and everyone was silent the entire duration of the tour. Each room had items from the Frank family, or from the business displayed behind glass, or a video of an interview of friends playing. The tour concluded with her checkered diary on display, along side later diary pages from journals and notebooks and an interview with her father playing on loop. The whole experience was incredibly moving and so much more powerful than I ever expected.
After the Anne Frank tour, we walked around looking for our canal tour. We meandered into small shops and a cheese factory that offered free samples of every kind of dreamy cheese you can imagine. After this, we found our boat tour and spent the next hour and a half exploring some of the 88 beautiful canals in Amsterdam. The boat tour is a must, as it is the only way to really see the canals up close and see a different way locals get around. To wrap up our trip, that night we went out with our three male roommates to a bar called Teasers, and then to a famous coffeehouse called the Grasshopper. We made our last night in Amsterdam count before we had to get up and leave the next morning.













I
am so happy I had this opportunity to get to Amsterdam. Before coming to Paris
for the semester when I was thinking about all of the places I wanted to visit
in Europe, Amsterdam wasn’t even on my radar. Having asthma, smoking is not
something I do in real life, so Amsterdam is not such a Mecca like journey for
me as it is other people. Having gone now and participating in the activities,
I am so happy I did! The city is exquisite with so much culture and beauty. The
entire time I was there it was like being in a coo coo clock. My advice to
anyone traveling to Europe is to make a trip to Amsterdam now. Come January,
there will be several laws enforced on the buying and selling of marijuana that
will make it illegal for establishments
to sell to foreigners and locals without a license and for non licensed people
to smoke. It will be similar to how California distributes. Even if you don’t
smoke, I would still suggest going now. Without having this legal trade, there
is no doubt it will end up in the hands of dealers, making the city less safe.
On top of it, tourism revenue is sure to go down, and the city will lose out on
the tax money it has been obtaining from this. I can only assume that after
these laws are enforced, Amsterdam will no longer be the same, so go now and
make it count!